Northern California Diary
Chandra Sivaraman
23rd December 2021:
Woke up late at 9am. It was drizzling. Roof started leaking again last night despite the patching done last week. We might have to cancel the trip.
Meanwhile Kamini, who hadn’t been able to sleep due to tension, had already called the guy who patched the roof and half a dozen other roofing fellows. Nobody was responding.
One guy from G&C agreed to come by and look when Kamini said that we had travel plans. He seemed to know what he was doing. He climbed up briskly and immediately said that we have a couple of broken tiles. He would cover it for now for $150 and fix it later for $1100. Luckily it was raining after he fixed it, and it didn’t leak anymore. We could go on our trip after all.
Had sandwiches made from leftover beans and fajitas and cheese. It was delicious. Side dish from leftover potato fingers and tacos was also very good. Had a coffee to round it off.
It was 1:30 by the time we headed out. Barfi accompanied us. It was raining so we went back and wiped windows with rainex.
It was raining hard with poor visibility by the time we entered the 118 West towards the 101 for Carmel. When we took the 118 Los Angeles Ave exit, Google Maps was routing us away from the 101 and towards the 5 via 126. There was no letup in the rain and it was a stressful drive. It was still raining buckets when we joined I-5. Thankfully the rain eased off intermittently through the mountains, and once we reached the plains. We gained some ground on the flat stretches.
The road then routed back towards 101 via smaller roads. It was another hairy ride in the dark; hit a puddle and skidded a little on one stretch but otherwise no problems. Fierce bursts of rain lashed us off and on.
Finally reached 101 after what seemed like an eternity. 101 was faster, but there were some construction stretches that were rather claustrophobic with a single lane and no shoulder on both sides.
Final stretches were through some rough roads and back country. Was very glad to finally pull into the hotel.
Carmel Bay Inn is a boutique hotel. Nice, cozy room overlooking swimming pool.
Had Ching’s noodles and vegan chili mixed together for dinner. It tasted great. Had chocolate for dessert.
Eyes hurt and had a headache. Turned in around 10:30-11.
24th December 2021:
Woke up at 8:53 am. Felt refreshed although Shonu kicked like a donkey at night.
Got breakfast grab bag which had an orange, a banana and a danish.
Hari messaged saying they are going to Panama on Saturday so won’t be able to meet. Usha Mami said they are in town and we could meet for dinner on Sunday.
Had hotel coffee, breakfast of Quaker oatmeal cinnamon and brown sugar. Showered and got ready.
No rain forecast today. Shonu wants to visit the mission. She has learned about it at school. This mission is apparently known for the swallows that visit and build their nests in the mission roofs. The monks built nests for the swallows, where they laid their eggs.
It is very chilly outside. The temperature is not too cold at 54 degrees but a chill wind is blowing from time to time. We bundle up from head to toe.
Walk to Carmel Mission Basilica Museum, which is a 20 minute walk through the town of Carmel. It is a quaint, charming and walkable town. Cobbled sidewalks, lots of small, local shops and restaurants, very European feel, especially with the weather. Many people are walking.
We step into a Christmas themed store named The Mole Hole of Carmel, with exquisite art and craft, some of it from Russia and Europe. Buy a small music box for Shonu that plays “We wish you a merry Christmas” theme, and one for her friends Peyton and Tobey that plays “Silent Night.
We exit the town center and walk through a street lined with pretty cottages. It feels like we are in a village. Many of the houses have names, such as “Secret Place”, “Wild flower”, “You are my sunshine”, “English cottage”, etc.
As we near the mission, we see an ancient bell mounted atop a pole. These originally lined the Kings highway (El Camino Real), and are a historical landmark seen in many places in California.
The mission suddenly comes into view framed by a backdrop of sweeping mountain ranges. It is breathtaking. The mission is an ancient Spanish structure adorned by the trademark bell on top. We buy tickets to the museum, which are $10 for adults and $5 for youth.
The mission is an oasis of serenity. There is hardly anybody, probably because it is a working day. The chapel is grand and meditative. The space seems designed to encourage quiet contemplation. The idols are works of art. History is seeping out of the pores of the place.
We come out into a vast courtyard with a fountain in the center. In one corner there are what seem like pulleys to draw water from wells. There is a massive bell in a tower. There are ancient trees. An air of peace permeates the air. But I wonder if it was always like this.
We enter a museum with ancient artifacts from the 17th and 18th century. We see how the monks lived hundreds of years ago. No native Americans are depicted which I find curious, since we know that converting Native Americans was one of the functions of the missions. Sidebar: Robert Louis Stevenson had been a visitor to the place. We didn’t see any swallows or nests.
On our way back, we eat lunch at Mission Bistro where we request outdoor seating. We order veggie fajitas, veggie quesadilla and garlic fries. The owner is accomodating and willing to make vegetarian items for us that are not on the menu. Everything is excellent. Best quesadilla I have eaten. The fajitas are sizzling and lightly flavored. A woman walking by remarks that they smell great and its a good thing she just had lunch. Fries are a little garlic heavy but fresh. We are pleased with the meal and Kamini gives a big Christmas tip.
In the evening, we go for a walk. There are Christmas lights all over the town. The place looks like a fairytale land. We get some gifts from a small gift shop. Earrings, a small notebook, caramel candy.
Shonu and Kamini spend the rest of the evening watching TV - Deal or No Deal, HGTV, Shark Tank. I do my best to write my diary amidst the cacophony.
25th December 2021:
Woke up at 9 today. Had cereal for breakfast. Packed cheese sandwich for lunch.
Went for 17 mile drive in Pebble beach, a scenic drive through a rugged promontory with viewpoints at regular locations. Pebble beach is a resort with one of the most beautiful golf courses in the world graced by the likes of Tiger Woods.
The drive started off through a forested section peppered with occasional meadows. The 1st view point was at Shepherds Knoll, overlooking a valley on one side with ocean views in the distance.
After a couple of similar viewpoints, the path wound back through forest, descended and emerged near the shore where stunning ocean views greeted us. The ocean was violently churning with gigantic waves spraying and crashing in the distance.
Stopped and took photos at many viewpoints. There was a bird rock where seagulls and cormorants were nesting. The ocean swells were getting more and more violent.
Wind swept cypress trees now start popping up on either side of the road. These are Monterey cypress trees, native to the region. They are frozen in exotic dance poses.
We finally reach the highlight of the drive - The Lone Cypress, a solitary 250 year old Monterey cypress standing on a rocky outpost in the ocean, resolutely braving the frigid winds and ocean waves. A lone bulwark against the mighty Pacific Ocean battering away at the shoreline, this tree symbolizes the spirit of rugged individualism that is the hallmark of this part of the country. It is cold enough to not want to stand outside for more than a few minutes. An old woman remarks that it is as cold as Ohio.
We decide to go back to the hotel and have lunch given the weather conditions.
The cheese sandwich is enhanced by achar and chips. The caramel dark chocolate from yesterday rounds things off. It is tasty but chewy as rubber.
A leisurely nap follows.
We have chai and play some games. Escape Room is a series of puzzles that have to be solved in order to open a lock. Trophies is a game where the first to answer cues gets points. Both are fun to play and Shonu has a great time.
We have Haldirams kadhi chawal for dinner with chips. It is nicely spiced and heartwarming.
We watch Home Alone and Home Alone 2 on TV. We nearly fall off the bed laughing at a funny scene in which the little boy Kevin throws four bricks in succession down on an unlucky robber’s head from a terrace. Incidentally, Donald Trump makes a cameo appearance in Home Alone 2. Apparently, he owned the hotel in the movie at the time.
26th December 2021:
Woke up at 9 today.
Breakfast of cereal and coffee.
Get ready and check out at 11. Going to Mamaji’s place in Cupertino. The drive through highway 1 and 17 is very dramatic and we experience pristine ocean views offset by strikingly rough terrain and verdant hills, all framed by cloudy skies.
We reach Mamaji’s house at 1:30 after stopping at Cost plus world Market to get some gifts - stroop waffles, cookies and chocolate.
We are met by Mamaji, Usha Mami and Rasika. They are all happy to see us. We have a lunch of pongal, kaara chutney, coconut chutney, spinach, salad and yogurt rice. It is a welcome change for us.
We sit and chat for some time. Impressed with how intelligent and mature Rasika sounds. Mamaji goes off to have a nap. Shonu plays Trophies game with Usha Mami. Rasika wakes up Mamaji at 3:30 pm for the Ashes match. He is a cricket fanatic who will happily sacrifice sleep for watching a game. He is reveling in schadenfreude at England’s troubles. He is contemptuous of some Aussies too, notably Labuschagne, who is ex-apartheid and a mercenary, and Steve Smith, who is a ball tamperer and cheat.
Kamini makes chai and Rasika makes coffee for me and Mamaji.
We leave at 5:45 for the ‘83 movie which is at 6:30pm at Century Cinemas 16 in Mountain View. Only Mamaji is joining us. Rasika is going to a wedding reception and Usha Mami isn’t interested.
Reach Marriott Residence Inn at San Mateo at around 9:30. It is a suite with a sofa, living area, full kitchen and writing table. It is basically a studio apartment. Shonu says she wouldn’t mind living here.
27th December 2021:
Woke up at 8:55 and missed breakfast. But we have supplies, and the hotel has a full kitchen, so no worries.
Planning to see SFO today - Golden Gate bridge, crooked street, the wharf, twin peaks, trolley ride.
Breakfast of paratha, achar and orange.
First stop was Twin Peaks in San Francisco. There was intermittent rain on the way there. It was frigid near the peak and Shonu was shivering, however the stunning views of the whole city made it worth it. The Golden Gate Bridge could be seen as well in the distance. Shonu cribbed and complained about the cold though she was wearing two thick jackets, a cap and gloves. She was probably hungry.
Next stop was Lombard Street, the self-proclaimed crookedest street in the world. This is a serpentine road that snakes downhill at a steep 45 degree angle. As scary as this sounds, it was the easiest part of this attraction. The approach to this street though was 15 minutes of sheer terror - a quarter mile climb up a 45 degree incline with traffic backed up all the way to the top. We had to inch our way uphill with the constant fear of sliding back down, or being rammed by the car in front of us sliding down. It was nerve wracking. Once we reached the top, I swore to never drive back on this road again.
Next we drove through the Golden Gate Bridge, one of the engineering marvels of the world connecting two peninsulas separated by a narrow strait. We parked on the other side of the bridge, which is in a different county. Marin county, in stark contrast to San Francisco, is completely rural. We wondered why it was undeveloped, given the proximity to the city and the stunning views of the city from the hills. It would have made for prime real estate.
We pulled over into a viewing area on the other end of the bridge. It was surprising how crowded it was given it was a Monday. Probably lots of tourists on Christmas vacation. There was a long line of cars waiting to park. We quickly found a parking spot through sheer luck as a car was leaving right in front of us. We happened to be in the right place at the right time.
As soon as we exited the car, we were greeted by a magnificent full rainbow over the far end of the bay overlooking the mainland.
After taking a few customary photos of the bridge against a backdrop of sweeping city views, we departed to the Fisherman’s wharf, a 20 minute drive away.
We parked in a parking structure at Pier 39, where there are lots of shops and activity. It was rather crowded. Shonu and Kamini got hot chocolate and I got coffee from a coffee shop. We each got a free biscotti with our drink. We also got 3 chocolate pieces for dessert from a chocolate shop. We left after seeing the seals lazing on the docks. They were barking and braying obnoxiously and didn’t smell too great.
By this time, Shonu was done for the day and wanted to leave. Mention of dosa at Komala Vilas lifted her spirits.
We made a pit stop at the hotel to freshen up, and then went straight to Komala Vilas, a 30 minute drive away.
The place is a no-frills tiffin center with no ambience to speak of. Shonu ordered ghee roast dosa and wada sambhar, Kamini ordered cheese dosa, and I ordered a limited evening thali with sambhar rice, curd rice, cabbage curry, poricha aplaam, and semiya payasam. Everything was delicious. The sambhar was spicy and thick. The coconut chutney was lightly spiced and well flavored. Shonu was happy. It was too bad they were closed the next day.
Came back to the hotel and had the raspberry chocolate from the wharf for dessert. It was excessively sweet.
Called and spoke to Mumbai and Ratlam.
28th December 2021:
Woke up at 8:15 today, in time for breakfast. Kamini refused to come, saying it was too cold. I didn’t want to die wondering so I went to see what they had. As it turns out, they didn’t have much - fruits, coffee, muffins, bear claws etc. Got coffee and fruits since all the other baked stuff would have had egg. The coffee was strong and much better than the room coffee.
Checked out at 12 after a breakfast of ciabatta bread and vegan chili.
Showed Shonu and Kamini the San Mateo apartment on 28th ave where I lived when I used to work in the Bay Area from 2000-2001.
Next, we filled up gas and hit the road towards Old Faithful geyser in Calistoga. We passed through the Golden Gate once again, passed Sausalito, and entered some picture book country with rolling green hills, grazing cows and story book towns - Microsoft Windows wallpaper country. There was light rain and fog and that probably explains the lush greenery. It felt like Europe.
We got off the 101 freeway and headed into winding roads. I was now feeling sleepy. After a long, twisty drive, we finally reached the place, only to find that the geyser had not been active of late. What a letdown.
We had some coffee and started out for Napa Valley. A few minutes later, we were in the valley. There were rows upon rows of vineyards on both sides of the road. Do they drink wine instead of water here? The distant mountains were shrouded in fog. Unfortunately, we couldn’t visit the vineyards because of age restrictions.
We finally reached Hotel Indigo, which was a clean yet quirky hotel. There was a couch and a Keurig coffee maker in the room, and wine-themed wall art. The bed was very comfortable. We were hungry and ate a lot of junk food chips, chiwda etc and had half a cup of coffee. We didn’t feel too good after that. Then we had a short 1 hour nap.
We went to Azzurro Pizzeria for dinner. It was a 10 minute drive from the hotel. When we reached, we found the place teeming with people waiting to be seated. We clearly didn’t stand a chance of being seated anytime soon. The owner then informed everyone that they were out of pizza dough and weren’t taking any more customers for the night. We asked her if we could order pasta to go and she said we could. The waiting crowd suddenly dispersed on hearing about the pizza dough. The owner asked us if we would like to dine in since many waiting people had left, to which we gleefully assented.
We were seated outdoors. They had heaters, so we were warm and toasty. A large desi family was sitting next table from us. We ordered spaghetti and penne pasta with squash. The food arrived in 5 minutes, which was amazing. It was dumb luck that they ran out of dough, otherwise we would have been eating back in the hotel room. The pasta was delicious. We ordered drinks - Coke for Shonu, and a glass of Merlot wine each for us. The wine enhanced the taste of the food, and warmed us up. It was wonderful to be able to have local wine in Napa, a place we had only heard about till now. We enjoyed the experience so much that we gave a $20 tip.
We drove back through inner streets to be safe.
29th December 2021:
Woke up at 8:15 and was ready by 9:15.
Leaving for Sacramento today.
Picturesque drive through light rain along I-80 freeway. More tree and cattle lined rolling hills, covered in green carpet.
We pass through Davis, small-town site of UC Davis university, about 20 miles from Sacramento.
We reach Sacramento at around 12:30. It is drizzling and there is a light fog. The terrain is flat. It is a sleepy provincial town.
First stop is the California state Capitol building. It is a grand building in the neoclassical style built between 1861 and 1874. The facade is impressive and we take a few photos there.
We enter the building from a side annex, after passing through security. We pass through a corridor lined by informational displays put up for each county in California.
The corridor leads to a massive circular hall underneath the building’s dome. The underside of the dome has an ornate design with blue and gold ornamentation. It is stunning. Galleries on the 2nd and 3rd floors overlook this central hall.
We climb up to the 2nd floor via stairs that are lined with portraits of past governors. The bannisters have intricate wood carvings, and lamps mounted on elaborate assemblies. On the 2nd floor, there are impressive doors to the senate chambers.
The third floor has portraits of recent governors including Gray Davis and Arnold Schwarzenegger and entrance to the governor’s chamber.
We go back down and look at the display for Ventura county for a few minutes before exiting. Kamini is feeling hungry to the point of fainting.
We have some stroop waffle for the time being and decide to have lunch at Preethi’s, an Indian restaurant in the downtown area nearby. It has both North and South Indian food, and generally these kinds of restaurants aren’t good at anything. But we are hungry and it is close to 3 pm when most Indian restaurants close for siesta.
The restaurant is empty, and the staff is an old Telugu uncle and aunty, who are almost surprised to see us. We have our doubts, but sit down and order dosas and uthappam. The aunty is wearing a mask that doesn’t cover the nose. The uncle isn’t wearing a mask and is coughing. Another maskless fellow enters the restaurant and starts talking with the uncle. We decide to not take a risk and walk out. The uncle calls out after us asking if we want or not, and we reply in the negative. It feels embarrassing and we feel bad for the uncle and aunty, but we can’t risk getting ill in times like these.
We drive to the hotel Marriott Fairfield Inn. The hotel is decent but a little old; a step down from the Residence Inn in San Mateo.
Kamini makes Ching’s noodles with vegan chili for lunch.
After siesta, we head to Chaat Kafe for dinner, a 15 minute drive. It is drizzling. When we reach, the place is deserted. We decide against going in. We go to a Panera Bread in the same complex but they are out of soup. We end up going to a Chipotle across the street. There we order two sofritas bowls to go and drive back to the hotel.
Disaster strikes as we get out from the car. The bottom of the bag rips and the bowls fall to the ground. One of them is salvageable. The other has to be thrown.
Shonu is a bit upset, but her mood improves after dinner.
We play 2 rounds of Trophies game while listening to classical music - tabla and pakhawaj, which is a lot of fun.
30th December 2021:
Woke up at 8:15 to the good news that India has won the 1st test against South Africa. Went and got hot breakfast - waffles, muffins, fresh coffee, Shonu’s fruit loops, a banana.
First stop was Old Town Sacramento. A quaint, historic shopping district with old buildings, 1800-1900s style signs, a riverfront, steamboats, a railway station, the Tower Bridge, a vertical lift bridge opened in 1935 painted a distinctive yellow. A lot of walking got us hungry, so we stopped at a hole in the wall pizza place for a slice of cheese pizza. We had to sit on a bench outside since there was no indoor seating. The pizza was unexpectedly tasty. It was a thin slice with a moderate amount of cheese, and a well baked, lightly crumbly crust. In fact, it was so good and light, that we each had one more slice, and didn’t feel too heavy afterwards.
Next stop was California state railroad museum. The first exhibit was art created from railroad parts. The figures were so simple yet had a heroic air to them in that they were all shown in the act of making and creating all kinds of engineering parts much bigger than themselves.
Next, we entered a gigantic hall with a steam locomotive on a track, the first locomotive on the Central Pacific railroad a classic “American” type 4-4-0 (4 leading wheels, 4 driving wheels, and no trailing wheels).
This hall led to another massive hall modeled as a historic railway station. It had a model train with a steam locomotive, a gigantic diesel locomotive, historic rail cars, and even historic benches for waiting passengers.
There were informational placards about the instruments used by surveyors, the history of railroads, and the businessmen who had the vision to build it. People like Leland Stanford, the founder of Stanford university, who was also a California governor and US senator, in addition to being a railroad magnate. Was he a visionary businessman or a robber baron, asks the placard. I suspect the answer depends on your political leanings, and might have shades of gray.
We inspect the interior of a mail car, a goods car transporting Sunkist oranges and a luxury car. An orange red X6051 diesel locomotive is very impressive and quintessentially American. It is overpoweringly huge. The typical American megalomania at work.
The 2nd floor is entirely devoted to toy trains of various sizes. There is a large glass enclosed display of working toy trains. I am especially impressed by the microscopic Z scale models which are built to 1:220 ratio. There are lots of intricate models of mining towns, pirate towns, small towns built around the railroad. Some of these are so detailed, they must have taken years to build. I would never have the patience for it, but I can certainly appreciate the effort and passion.
Shonu says she is tired and wants to return to the hotel and sleep.
On the way back, we go to a Starbucks drive through. I get a hot peppermint mocha, Kamini gets a cold peppermint mocha, and Shonu gets a strawberry açaí lemonade iced tea. All drinks are delicious and refreshing. I have a new favorite hot drink.
We return to the hotel and have a nice nap. Shonu and Kamini watch Shark Tank on TV.
Check with Pavan on their new year plans. He invites us over.
Shonu and me go and get some snacks from the front desk - onion rings, Fritos corn chips, Twix and M&Ms, and Pepsi.
I also get hot water in water bottle from the front desk to make Mac n cheese. Kamini drinks water from the bottle thinking it to be warm water and burns her mouth. Give her cold pepsi and get some ice from ice machine for her. She seems to be OK.
We have hot Mac n cheese and corn chips for dinner with Pepsi, and Twix for dessert.
Shonu and Kamini watch HGTV.
31st December 2021:
Woke up at 8:30. Kamini and me went for hot breakfast of waffle, muffin and coffee. Got fruit loops for Shonu.
Checked out at 11 sharp. Stopped at a drive through for 20 minutes for coffee only to be informed that they are out of all the drinks we want. We decide to have coffee later and resume the drive. Another picturesque drive through flat plains with green rolling hills on either side. Kamini took over at around 11:30.
Stopped at Taco Bell at around 1:30pm. Had chalupa and fiesta potatoes. Filled gas at 76 and got back on I-5.
Stopped after about 30 minutes for Starbucks coffee. Same as yesterday.
Resumed drive. Got stuck for about 30-45 minutes due to a 3-car accident. Some genius drove too fast through construction zone.
When we got to the mountains just outside LA, there was a fog so deep and dense that we could barely make out the road markings and the car in front of us. Drove slowly for about 30-40 minutes till it cleared near Frazier park. It had snowed in Frazier park and the mountains were fully covered in snow. Temperature was 35 degrees Fahrenheit.
We finally reached home at 6:30 to be greeted by a pitch dark street. The electricity was out on our whole street. Gave Shonu her Chromebook which was supposed to be a Christmas present. She does a jumping jack dance, during which the lights come back on.
We went to Pavan’s house at 7:45, buying some sodas along the way, and carrying some desserts.
Sirisha had made pani puri. Ate about 12-16 without realizing. There was also Shahi paneer, rajma, chapati and rice. It was a deceptively heavy dinner.
Saw a couple of movies on their new Sony TV. Hindi Medium and Bell Bottom.
Shonu and the kids played escape room.
Wished them a happy new year at 12 and then drove back home to crash.